Leather mache is a name for sculpting thin, wet vegetable-tanned leather into three-dimensional shapes, such as flowers, masks, figures, and small vessels. The leather hardens as it dries and keeps the shape you give it.
The term is used loosely. Some makers also use it for a paste made from shredded leather scraps and glue, which is a different process. This guide covers the sculpted version. If you are new to wet work, read leather molding techniques first for the basics of wet forming.
Choosing leather
- Use vegetable-tanned leather. Chrome-tanned and garment leathers won’t hold a sculpted shape.
- Start around 2–4 oz (about 0.8–1.6 mm). Thin leather captures finer detail. Thicker leather does not give better detail.
- Go thinner for petals and fine detail.
- Skive the edges. Thin the edges of pieces that need delicate rims or overlapping joins.
Tools
Common tools include modeling spoons, ball styluses, a bone folder, small scissors, and a swivel knife.
Iron and steel tools can leave black tannin stains where they touch wet leather. Use wood, plastic, brass, or stainless tools while the leather is damp.
Soaking and shaping
- Soak the leather in warm water until the air bubbles stop.
- Shape it while it is still damp and workable. Use your fingers and modeling tools to press it into curves and detail.
Some makers use hotter water, around 60–70°C (140–158°F), for a harder result. Results vary by maker. Water that hot can also shrink leather, so test on a scrap first.
Supporting the shape while it dries
Most pieces sag while they dry, so plan your supports before you start.
- Put supports inside the piece, such as wire armatures, foil, cotton wool, or a polymer clay core.
- Hold the shape in place with pins, clothespins, clips, or rubber bands.
Drying
- Dry the piece at room temperature for about 12 to 24 hours.
- A hairdryer or heat gun on low can speed drying. Keep it moving, because leather scorches quickly.
Hardening and sealing
- Harden or seal the piece with diluted PVA glue, shellac, or an acrylic finish such as Resolene.
- Wax gives a softer kind of stiffness.
- Heat hardening is a different method. For that, see baking leather to harden it.
Joining parts
- Join pieces with contact cement or stitching.
- Glue only to roughened surfaces, not finished ones, so the glue can grip.
Color and finish
- Color the piece after it has dried. Use spirit or water-based dyes, or acrylic leather paints.
- Seal painted work with an acrylic topcoat.
- Ventilate the room when you use solvent-based products, such as spirit dyes or sealers.
Common mistakes to avoid
- “Any leather works.” Chrome-tanned and garment leathers won’t hold sculpted shapes.
- “Thicker leather gives better detail.” Thin leather sculpts finer detail.
- “The piece will hold its shape without support.” Most pieces sag without pins or stuffing while they dry.
- “Hardened leather art is waterproof.” Moisture softens pieces that aren’t sealed.
Safety
- Use heat guns on low, and keep them moving. Leather scorches quickly.
- Ventilate the room when you use solvent-based products.