Short answer: a utility knife with fresh blades
For most beginners, a utility knife with fresh or snap-off blades is the cheapest and most versatile choice. It handles straight and curved cuts, and it works on most veg-tan. Pair it with a steel ruler and a self-healing mat. Other tools suit specific jobs, and some fail on thick leather.
Cutting tools by job
Utility knife
Utility knives such as an Olfa or a Stanley are the common starting point. Use fresh or snap-off blades. Straight cuts go along a steel ruler, and curves can be cut freehand. This is the cheapest all-round option, and blades are inexpensive to replace.
Craft knife or scalpel
An X-Acto knife with a #11 blade, or a scalpel with a #10 or #11 blade, suits small curves and fine detail. It’s more delicate than a utility knife, so it fits detailed work better than long cuts.
Round knife
A round knife is a traditional curved blade. It’s used for push-cutting straight lines and curves, and for beveling and skiving. It needs regular stropping and a steady hand. It isn’t required to start, and good ones cost $40 to $150 or more.
Rotary cutter
A 45 mm or 60 mm rotary cutter is fast for thin chrome-tan and garment leather, roughly up to 3 to 4 oz. It struggles with thick veg-tan, so don’t count on it for belts or heavy straps.
Shears
Leather shears or heavy-duty scissors suit thin leather, roughly 3 oz and under. Household or kitchen scissors won’t cut veg-tan of typical project thickness cleanly, and they tend to leave a ragged edge.
Strap cutter
A draw-gauge strap cutter cuts even straps and belts from a straight edge. Once one edge is straight, it cuts parallel strips of a set width.
Tools that thin rather than cut
A skiving knife or safety skiver thins leather rather than cutting through it. It’s used at folds and overlaps, where the layers would otherwise be too bulky.
Hobby cutters, clicker presses and lasers
Hobby cutting machines such as the Cricut and Silhouette cut only thin leather, and the limit depends on the model and blade. A clicker press with steel-rule dies is used for repeated identical shapes, mostly in production.
CO2 laser cutters cut and engrave veg-tan well, but the edges come out charred. Don’t laser-cut chrome-tanned leather, because the fumes can contain chromium compounds and other toxins. Even for veg-tan, use strong extraction and ventilation. For the safety side of this, see leatherworking safety for beginners.
Tips for clean cuts
- Cut on a self-healing mat or an HDPE board. Glass and stone blunt blades quickly.
- Hold the blade vertical, and use a steel ruler for straight lines.
- Cut in several passes rather than one heavy stroke.
- Strop the blade during use, and touch it up when cuts start to drag or tear.
For a step-by-step method, see how to cut straight lines in leather without a machine. For the basic kit, see essential leatherworking tools.