What a maker’s mark is for
A maker’s mark is a small, repeatable brand that identifies your work. It is usually stamped or branded in a consistent place on each piece, such as an inside pocket, a back panel, a belt tip or under a flap.
Types of mark
- Cold stamp: a custom stamp is pressed into cased vegetable-tanned leather. This is the most common method.
- Hot brand: a heated brass die is pressed into the leather. It works on drier leather and some leathers that won’t take a cold stamp.
- Laser-engraved mark: a laser burns the design into the surface. For how lasers work on leather, see can a laser engraver be used on leather.
Choosing the stamp material
Custom stamps are usually made from brass, steel or magnesium. Brass and steel last the longest. Magnesium wears faster.
The typical mark size is about 1/2 to 1 in (12 to 25 mm). Larger marks need more force to stamp evenly.
Designing for leather
Leather doesn’t reproduce fine detail well, so design with that in mind:
- Keep line widths above about 0.5 mm. Thin lines fill in on leather.
- Avoid fine serif text. Text smaller than about 2 to 3 mm high often blurs.
- Use simple, bold shapes. A logo that looks good on screen does not always stamp well.
- Check the design is mirrored. The design is cut as a mirror image on the stamp. Most stamp makers mirror it for you, but confirm before you order.
These limits vary by maker, so ask your stamp maker for their minimums.
Ordering a custom stamp
Supply vector artwork, such as SVG, AI, EPS or PDF. Vector files scale cleanly to the stamp size you choose. Ask the maker for a proof or a sample impression before you commit to the full order.
Stamping: test first, then one firm strike
Always test on a scrap piece of the same leather, at the same moisture. Cold stamping needs vegetable-tanned leather cased to the right moisture. For casing, see are you supposed to wet leather before tooling.
- Small stamps: use one firm strike with a maul on a stone slab. Don’t strike twice. Striking again to deepen the impression usually doubles the image.
- Larger stamps: use an arbor press, clicker or stamping press. These give even pressure across the whole design.
- Too much force blurs the edges and can cut through thin leather. More force isn’t always better.
Hot branding
Hot branding works on drier leather. Temperature depends on the unit and the leather, so find the setting by testing on scrap. Hot brands are hot enough to cause serious burns, so use a stand and keep the unit away from anything flammable.
Placement
Choose one placement and use it on every product, so your brand looks consistent. Good spots include inside pockets, back panels, belt tips and under flaps.
Common mistakes
- Stamping chrome-tanned leather. It won’t hold a cold impression well. If you’re unsure what you have, see how to identify chrome-tanned leather.
- Using too much force. The edges blur.
- Re-striking to deepen an impression. It usually doubles the image.
- Designing with fine text. It often blurs on leather.
For a drawn alternative to a stamped mark, see how to etch and engrave leather by hand. For the basics of the tool set, see leather carving for beginners.
Safety
- Hot brands cause serious burns. Use a stand, and keep the unit away from flammable materials.
- Test before you stamp a finished piece, so you don’t spoil a product with a bad impression.