What filigree leather carving is
Filigree is a way of carving a design and then cutting out its background completely, so that a layer underneath shows through. It is not the same as backgrounding with a stamp. A stamp presses the background down, but filigree removes it.
Tool and cut first, then cut out
Carve and tool the design first. Cut the outlines with a swivel knife, bevel them, and shade them. Only then cut out the background.
Don’t reverse the order. Unsupported leather stretches and distorts, so a design cut out before it is tooled will lose its shape. For the basic swivel-knife cuts, see how to hold and cut with a swivel knife.
Tools for cutting out
- A craft knife with a #11 blade for most of the cutting. For the blade and technique, see using an exacto knife to cut leather.
- A filigree blade for the swivel knife, which is designed for cutting within a tooled design.
- Small punches for tight spots.
- A self-healing mat or poly board to cut on. Keep the stone slab for carving.
How to cut out the background
- Bevel the edges of the areas to be cut out. A beveled edge looks rounded and finished once the piece is cut.
- Hold the blade vertical, at 90° to the surface, for clean walls.
- Start at the corners and tight points. Then join them with straight or curved cuts.
- Work with the leather dry or only slightly damp. Makers differ on which works best, so test on scrap.
- Remove pieces gently. If a fiber holds, recut it rather than tearing it.
Thickness and bridges
Filigree is easier on thinner leather, which cuts cleanly. A typical top leather is vegetable-tanned, around 4 to 7 oz (about 1.6 to 2.8 mm). Thicker leather doesn’t make a filigree piece sturdier. It makes clean cuts much harder.
Leave the thin strips of leather between cut-out areas, called bridges, at least about 1/16 in (about 1.6 mm) wide. Narrower bridges are likely to tear.
Adding the underlay
Dye and finish the top layer before you glue on the underlay. The underlay is usually thin contrasting leather, about 2 to 3 oz, or suede or an exotic leather. Glue it on with contact cement, then stitch around the edge, which is the usual finish.
Where filigree works
Filigree suits belts, wallet panels, notebook covers and bag flaps. A belt can be a good first project; see how to carve a leather belt.
Common mistakes
- Treating filigree like a stamped background. The background is removed, not pressed down.
- Cutting out before tooling. The unsupported leather will stretch and distort.
- Choosing very thick leather. It makes clean cuts much harder.
- Leaving bridges too narrow. They tear.
Safety
- Change or strop blades often. A dull blade slips and causes more cuts than a sharp one.
- Keep your fingers out of the blade’s path, and cut away from your hand.
For the broader sequence of carving steps, see leather carving for beginners.