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How to Make a Leather Journal Cover

How to make a leather journal cover: choosing leather weight, measuring notebook sizes, elastic or pocket styles, closures, stitching and finishing.

On this page
  1. Choosing Leather
  2. Measuring Your Notebook
  3. Choosing a Style
  4. Cutting and Folding
  5. Stitching Pockets and Spine
  6. Edge Finishing and Decoration
  7. Finishing Without Staining Paper
  8. Common Mistakes

A leather journal cover protects a notebook and holds its inserts in place. The same method works for a leather diary, so the steps below apply to either. Most of the work is in getting the size right, so measure your notebook and test-fold before you cut the final piece.

Choosing Leather

Thicker leather does not make a better journal cover, because over-thick leather won’t lie flat. Chrome-tanned leather cannot be tooled or burnished the way vegetable-tanned leather can, so choose the tanning to match the look you want.

Measuring Your Notebook

Start by measuring your notebook. These are common sizes:

Notebook Size
Traveler’s notebook, regular insert 110 x 210 mm
Traveler’s notebook, passport insert 89 x 124 mm
A5 paper 148 x 210 mm
B6 paper 125 x 176 mm
A6 paper 105 x 148 mm

Add about 5-10 mm to each edge beyond the notebook, though designs vary. The spine needs to be wide enough for the notebook’s thickness plus the thickness of the leather itself.

Test-fold a scrap of your cover before you cut the final piece. A cover cut exactly to the paper size will be too tight once it is folded around a thick notebook.

Choosing a Style

  • Elastic-cord style: round elastic, about 2-3 mm, threads through holes or slits in the spine. The elastic holds the inserts in place, so no glue is needed.
  • Slip-in style: stitched pockets (flaps) on each side hold the notebook covers. Leave a little slack so the notebook slides in easily.

For closures, you can use a wrap tie (a leather thong), an elastic band, a snap tab, or a button and cord.

Cutting and Folding

Cut flexible covers with the grain running along the spine, so the cover folds cleanly. Test-fold a scrap before you commit to the final size.

Stitching Pockets and Spine

Saddle-stitch the pockets with 0.5-0.6 mm waxed thread, using chisels with a 3-3.85 mm pitch.

For the elastic style, make holes or slits in the spine and thread the elastic through them. Pull the elastic snug enough that the inserts sit with some tension. Test with the notebook before you tie off the ends.

Edge Finishing and Decoration

  • Vegetable-tanned leather: bevel, sand and burnish the edges.
  • Chrome-tanned leather: paint the edges or leave them raw.

You can emboss initials or a tool design on cased vegetable-tanned leather before you assemble the cover.

Finishing Without Staining Paper

Use a light leather conditioner. Heavy oils can stain paper, so keep the finish light and let it dry fully before the notebook goes inside.

Common Mistakes

  • Cutting to the exact paper size. The cover will be too tight once it is folded.
  • Using thick leather. It will not lie flat.
  • Gluing the inserts. Elastic or pockets hold them, so glue is not needed.

For similar stitching and edge work on a smaller piece, see the bifold leather wallet guide. For more project ideas, see the DIY leather projects overview.

The complete guide to projects

DIY Leather Projects: What to Make with Leather
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