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How to Make a Leather Quiver

How to make a leather quiver, covering back, hip and sling styles, sizing to your arrows, seams, shaping the body and safe broadhead storage.

On this page
  1. Types of Leather Quivers
  2. Sizing the Quiver to Your Arrows
  3. Choosing Leather Weights
  4. Pattern and Seams
  5. Padding, Base and Shape
  6. Straps, Rings and Pockets
  7. Finishing
  8. Safety

A leather quiver keeps arrows protected and within reach. The build combines pattern work, a body that is stitched into a tube, and a base that protects the arrow points. The design you choose depends on how you shoot and how long your arrows are, so start with those.

Types of Leather Quivers

  • Back quiver: worn over one shoulder, with the arrows behind your back.
  • Hip or side quiver: worn at the hip and shorter than a back quiver.
  • Traditional sling-style quiver: another option, with a simpler design.

Back quivers are not automatically more practical. Many archers find hip quivers easier for drawing arrows, so try both styles if you can.

Sizing the Quiver to Your Arrows

Adult arrows are commonly about 28-31 in long. Use your own arrow length when you size the quiver.

  • A back quiver body of roughly 18-24 in leaves about 6-10 in of shaft and fletching sticking out, though this depends on arrow length.
  • A hip quiver is shorter, roughly 12-18 in.
  • A top opening of about 3.5-4.5 in holds roughly 12-24 arrows, depending on fletching size.

Quiver length is not the same as arrow length. Make sure the fletching stays within reach when the quiver is full.

Choosing Leather Weights

  • Body: vegetable-tanned leather in 5-7 oz. Heavier leather holds its shape better, and lighter leather is easier to roll into a tube.
  • Base: an 8-10 oz leather disc stitched in, or a wooden or plastic disc. Heavy use calls for a reinforced base.
  • Shoulder strap: 1-1.5 in wide and 8-10 oz, with a buckle for adjustment.

Pattern and Seams

The body pattern is a rectangle, or a slight taper, wide enough to cover the quiver’s top diameter multiplied by pi, plus seam allowance. That product is the circumference of the opening.

Two seam options are common:

  • Lap seam: the edges overlap and are stitched or laced together.
  • Butt seam: the edges meet, so the seam needs a welt or backing strip for strength.

Padding, Base and Shape

Pad the bottom with 1-2 in of dense foam or felt to protect arrow points and fletching.

To set a round shape, wet-mold the body or stuff it while it is damp. Let it dry fully, which can take about 24-48 hours. Thin, unstiffened leather sags and lets arrows tangle, so choose a weight that holds its shape.

Straps, Rings and Pockets

Add a D-ring or loop for carrying or for attaching a hood. A side pocket is optional and can hold small items.

Finishing

Seal the leather with wax or a water-resistant finish. Vegetable-tanned leather stains when it gets wet, so keep that in mind when you choose a finish.

Safety

  • Cover broadheads or use a broadhead-safe insert. Never carry them loose in a quiver.
  • A leather bottom alone does not stop broadheads. Field points and broadheads can pierce it.

For other leather gear built for outdoor use, see bushcraft leatherwork. For more project ideas, see the DIY leather projects overview.

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DIY Leather Projects: What to Make with Leather
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