A headstall is the part of a bridle that fits over a horse’s head and holds the bit. It is a practical project for practicing hand stitching, but it is also load-bearing tack. Fit, hardware and stitching matter more than decoration, so measure carefully and check every part before use.
Parts of a Headstall
- Crownpiece: the strap that runs over the poll, just behind the ears.
- Cheekpieces: the two side straps that run down each side of the face.
- Browband or ear: Western styles have either a browband across the forehead or, instead of a browband, a one-ear design (a slit or slip ear) or a two-ear design.
- Throatlatch: the strap that runs under the throat.
- Bit ends: where the bit attaches to the headstall.
English bridles add a noseband.
Choosing Leather and Strap Width
Harness, bridle or latigo leather in 8-10 oz is a common choice for headstalls. Vegetable-tanned leather should be well oiled and sealed before use. Common strap widths are 5/8 in, 3/4 in and 1 in.
Chrome-tanned or garment leather is generally not strong enough for tack. Thin decorative leather can be tooled for looks, but it cannot replace a full-thickness, load-bearing strap.
For hardware, stainless steel or solid brass resists rust. Cheap zinc-alloy castings are a poor choice.
Measuring for Fit
Headstalls come in sizes such as pony, cob, horse (full) and oversize or draft. The best reference is the horse itself, or an existing headstall that fits well.
To measure, run a tape from one bit ring, over the poll just behind the ears, down to the other bit ring. Keep these checks in mind as you set the size:
- Build in adjustment. Include at least two or three holes, about 1 in apart, or buckles on each side.
- Throatlatch: leave about three to four fingers’ width between the strap and the jaw.
- Browband: it must not pinch the base of the ears.
- Bit height: a snaffle is often set with one or two wrinkles at the corners of the mouth. Curb bits usually sit lower. The right height varies by bit and horse, so ask an experienced horse person to check.
- Not too tight: a tighter headstall is not more secure. It causes rubs and discomfort.
Bit Attachments and Hardware
Bit ends can be fastened with Chicago screws, leather ties or water loops, or buckles. Ties are easier to replace, while screws and buckles are more permanent.
Chicago screws are not set-and-forget. They loosen with use. Put a threadlocker, such as blue Loctite, on the threads, and check them regularly.
Cutting, Stitching and Finishing
Cut the straps straight and to your measurements. Then mark and punch the adjustment holes and stitch lines. Bevel and burnish the edges before you stitch.
Hand-stitch with 0.8-1.0 mm waxed polyester thread. Bevel, burnish and seal all the edges. Finish with neatsfoot oil or a leather conditioner, then a wax-based sealer.
Common Mistakes
- Using decorative leather for the load. Thin tooled leather looks good but cannot carry the strain of a bridle.
- Setting it too tight. A tighter fit does not make the headstall safer.
- Trusting Chicago screws without checking. They need threadlocker and regular checks.
Safety Checks Before Riding
Before each ride, inspect the stitching, holes and hardware for cracks, stretching or loose screws. Replace any strap that is dry-cracked or torn at a hole.
The same stitching and hardware habits apply to a leather dog collar, so it is a useful companion read. For more projects, see the DIY leather projects overview.