A plain leather belt is a practical first strap project. It covers measuring, cutting, punching and buckle fitting. Most of the difficulty is in getting the length and hole spacing right, so take your time with those steps.
What You Need
- Leather: vegetable-tanned, bridle or latigo leather in 8-10 oz for everyday belts, or 10-14 oz for gun or work belts.
- Where to cut: from the back or shoulder, along the spine, for less stretch. Avoid bellies, which stretch.
- Cutting tools: a strap cutter, or a utility knife with a steel rule and a fresh blade.
- Punches: a round or oblong punch sized for the buckle prong. This is often about 4-5 mm, though it varies.
- Hardware: a buckle, plus Chicago screws, rivets or line 24 snaps.
- Finishing: an edge beveler, a slicker or canvas cloth, dye, and a conditioner or sealer.
Measuring the Belt Length
Belt size is measured from the buckle fold, where the prong sits, to the center hole. To measure, take a belt that fits well and measure from the prong to the hole you wear most.
- Belt size is usually about 2 in larger than your pants waist, though this varies by brand and by how the pants sit.
- Past the buckle fold, leave about 3-4 in. Past the center hole, leave about 4-6 in for the tip. These allowances vary by design.
- Adding these allowances together, the finished strap ends up roughly 9 to 12 in longer than your waist measurement. Check the total against your own belt before you cut.
Belt size is not the full strap length. A belt sized exactly to your pants usually comes out too short.
Choosing a Width
- 1.25 in: dress belts.
- 1.5 in: standard jeans.
- 1.75 in: work or heavy use.
The buckle’s inner width must match the strap width.
Cutting the Strap
Cut the strap with a strap cutter, or with a knife against a steel rule. Check that the strap is straight, then square off both ends.
Punching the Adjustment Holes
Use five holes, spaced about 1 in apart. Put the center hole at your measured size, and place two holes on each side of it. Some makers use 3/4 in spacing instead.
Punch each hole with a punch sized to the buckle prong. One punch size does not suit every buckle.
Cutting the Buckle Slot
Mark two holes about 3/4 in apart along the center of the strap, centered on the fold line, then cut the leather between them. This creates the slot for the buckle prong.
Shaping the Tip
Choose a round, English point or bullet tip. A tip punch or a template helps you get a consistent shape.
Fitting the Buckle
Fold the buckle end over the buckle bar and through the slot. Fasten it with stitching, rivets, line 24 snaps or Chicago screws. Snaps and screws make it easier to swap buckles later, while stitching and rivets are more permanent.
Keeper Loop
A keeper holds the loose end of the belt. Cut a strip about 3/8-1/2 in wide. For the length, a practical rule is twice the belt width, plus four times the belt thickness, plus a small overlap. That is the distance around two layers of strap, which the keeper wraps.
Edges and Finish
Bevel the top and bottom edges, then wet them and burnish until smooth. Dye the strap, and seal the edges and the flesh side with a conditioner or sealer.
Common Mistakes
- Sizing the belt to your pants exactly. It will be too short.
- Using chrome-tanned leather. It is too stretchy and floppy for a plain belt.
- Using one punch for every buckle. Match the punch to the prong.
For the same punching and hardware steps on a smaller piece, see the dog collar guide. To decorate the strap, see how to carve a leather belt. For more ideas, see the DIY leather projects overview.