Suede and nubuck are both soft, velvety leathers. The difference is which side of the hide has been sanded. Suede is sanded from the flesh side, the underside that sat against the animal’s body. Nubuck is sanded from the grain side, the outer surface. As a result, nubuck is usually tougher, and suede is softer and looser.
What suede is
Suede is flesh-side leather napped by sanding. It is often made from a split, which is the lower layer of the hide. It can come from lamb, goat, deer, pig or calf, or from the split of a cowhide. Its nap is longer and looser, which gives a soft, fuzzy feel. Suede is thinner than nubuck and tears more easily.
Fine lamb or goat suede is a premium product, so suede is not always lower quality. Types of leather explained places suede among the other finishes.
What nubuck is
Nubuck is grain-side leather buffed to a short, fine nap. It is usually made from cowhide or calf. The buffing creates a velvety surface, and the leather is often dyed to even out the colour. Nubuck is tighter and more durable than suede, and it usually costs more.
Texture, nap and feel
- Nubuck has a very short, fine, close nap. It feels smooth and velvety.
- Suede has a longer, looser, more open nap. It feels fuzzier and softer.
The two can look similar in a shop. Run your hand across the surface, or look at it at an angle, to see the nap. Leather grain patterns covers other surface textures.
Durability and price
Nubuck is stronger and harder-wearing, which suits heavy use such as work boots and bags. Suede is thinner and lighter, which suits fashion footwear, jackets and accessories. Nubuck is usually the more expensive of the two. Suede can be more economical because it is made from the split. How to choose leather for a project helps match the leather to the use.
Water and stains
Neither material is waterproof. Both absorb water and oil through their open surface, so both stain easily. Nubuck handles light moisture slightly better than suede.
Treat both with a water and stain repellent, and reapply it regularly, typically every few months, depending on use. Use repellent sprays outdoors or in a ventilated area.
Caring for suede
- Brush with a suede brush, with brass or nylon bristles or a crepe brush, to lift the nap.
- Use a suede eraser or crepe block for marks.
- Steam lifts flattened nap. Hold the item over steam, then brush it gently once it is dry.
- Brush after each wear to keep the nap healthy.
Caring for nubuck
Nubuck needs gentler brushing. Harsh brushing wears the short nap and can leave it patchy. Use a soft brush or a crepe block, and work in one direction. Brush off surface dirt before it works into the nap.
Fixing water marks
Water rings are common on suede and nubuck. Removing stains from leather covers water marks on other finishes. The usual approach is to:
- Dampen the whole panel evenly, not just the mark, so the colour dries uniformly.
- Blot gently with a clean cloth.
- Dry at room temperature, away from heat.
- Brush the nap once it is dry.
Test any method on a hidden area first.
What to avoid
- Oils and creams made for smooth leather. They mat the nap and darken it. Waxed vs oiled leather covers how those treatments work on other finishes, and oiling the rough side of leather explains why napped surfaces need extra caution.
- Heat. Do not dry suede or nubuck with a hairdryer, a radiator or an open fire.
- Harsh scrubbing. It damages the nap.
Microsuede is not leather
Microsuede, sold under names such as Ultrasuede, is a synthetic microfibre, usually polyester or polyurethane. It feels like suede and is often more stain-resistant, but it is not leather. Check the label if the material matters to you.
Choosing between them
- Work boots and bags take heavy wear. Nubuck is usually the better choice.
- Fashion shoes, jackets and accessories that prioritise softness. Suede is common.
- Anything that will get wet often. Neither is ideal. Choose a treated option and expect regular upkeep.