Lambskin is the leather most often named as the softest. Garment lamb is typically about 0.5 to 0.9 mm thick. Its thin, light structure gives it a smooth, drapey feel. It suits jackets, gloves and linings. It is not a good choice for belts or heavy bags.
Other very soft leathers
- Kidskin, from young goats, is thin and fine, and is strong for its weight. It is popular for fine gloves.
- Deerskin stays soft after it gets wet and dries. It is stretchy and is used for gloves and moccasins.
- Peccary, from a wild pig-like animal of South America, is very soft and used for gloves. Its pores appear in groups of three.
- Cabretta, from hair sheep, is thin and strong. It is used for dress gloves and golf gloves.
- Calfskin is soft and fine-grained. It is firmer than lambskin and is used for dress shoes and small goods. Some of these skins also appear in luxury and exotic leathers.
- Chamois is a split leather from sheepskin, traditionally oil-tanned with cod oil. It is very soft and absorbent.
Why some leathers feel softer
Softness comes from several steps, not just from the animal:
- Tanning. Chrome and combination tanning usually give a softer feel than vegetable tanning. Types of leather explained covers the tannages.
- Fatliquoring. Oils added during processing keep the fibres supple.
- Drum milling and staking. Mechanical working relaxes the fibres.
- Thin shaving. Thinner leather feels softer and drapes more easily.
- Finish. Aniline finishes leave the surface open, which keeps it soft.
Vegetable-tanned leather can also be soft, especially some garment grades that have been drum-softened. It is usually firmer than chrome-tanned leather. If a piece is stiffer than you want, see how to soften hard leather.
Nappa: a feel, not a species
Nappa is a soft, full-grain leather, usually chrome-tanned, and it is often made from lamb, calf or cowhide. Its name is usually traced to Napa, California. Nappa describes a smooth, soft feel rather than an animal. Finishes vary, so check whether the listing says aniline, semi-aniline or pigmented.
Suede and nubuck feel soft too
Suede and nubuck feel soft because their surface is napped, which means it is sanded to raise a fine nap. The soft feel comes from the surface rather than the whole thickness, so it can wear with use. Suede vs nubuck compares the two.
Soft does not mean durable
The softest leathers usually scratch, stretch and tear more easily than cowhide. A soft lambskin jacket can look wonderful, but it will not stand up to the same abrasion as firmer leather. The reverse is often true: the most durable leathers are usually firmer. Choose softness for the use you need, not as a sign of quality.
Which soft leather for which project
- Jackets and garments: lambskin, kidskin and deerskin are common choices.
- Gloves: kidskin, lambskin, deerskin, peccary and cabretta are all used.
- Linings: thin, soft leathers suit linings.
- Belts and heavy bags: choose firmer leather. Lambskin is not suited to these.
How to choose and identify leather for a project explains how to match leather to the job.
Caring for very soft leather
Soft leathers mark and stain easily. Keep them away from rough surfaces and sharp objects, and wipe spills quickly. Test any product on a hidden area first, because soft leathers can react differently to oils and cleaners.
“Butter-soft” is a marketing phrase
Words like “butter-soft” and “buttery” have no standard meaning. They describe how a seller hopes the leather will feel. To judge softness, handle the leather yourself where you can, and check the species, thickness and tannage in the listing.