The leather jacket began as practical gear. Pilots in open cockpits needed warmth, and armed forces later set standards for flight jackets. Motorcycle riders then adopted the style, and it became a symbol of rebellion and, eventually, of fashion.
Flying jackets in World War I
Aviators in open cockpits faced cold and wind, and leather coats and jackets gave them warmth. Early aircrew wore a range of leather coats. These garments were built for function first, and style came later.
The A-1, A-2, B-3, and G-1
US military flight jackets were standardized in the 1920s and 1930s. Four designs are central to the story:
- The A-1 (1927) was a flight jacket with a button front and a knit collar.
- The A-2 (standardized in 1931) was usually made of horsehide. It had a shirt collar, a zip front, knit cuffs and waistband, and epaulettes. It was not sheepskin-lined.
- The B-3 (1934) was a sheepskin, or shearling, bomber jacket for high-altitude crews. The name “bomber jacket” first meant the B-3, not the A-2.
- The G-1 was a goatskin jacket with a mouton (sheep fur) collar for the US Navy. It evolved from an earlier model in the late 1930s and received its G-1 designation around 1947.
The A-2 is technically a flight jacket. Calling it a bomber jacket is a common mix-up.
From flight to road: the Schott Perfecto
Schott Bros. was founded in New York in 1913 by Irving and Jack Schott. In 1928 it introduced the Perfecto, which was the first zippered motorcycle jacket. It had an asymmetric zip, wide lapels, a belt, and zipped cuffs.
Irving named the jacket after his favorite cigar brand. A commonly repeated account says the jacket sold through a Harley-Davidson dealer for $5.50. Perfecto is a Schott trademark, not a general term for a motorcycle jacket, although people often use it that way.
Later makers also produced motorcycle jackets. Langlitz Leathers, founded in 1947 in Portland, Oregon, is one example.
Hollywood and The Wild One
After World War II, surplus military jackets and commercial motorcycle jackets reached the civilian market. The look moved from work and flight into everyday style.
In The Wild One (1953), Marlon Brando wore a Schott-style motorcycle jacket. Some sources identify it as a Schott model called the One Star 618, but that attribution is debated, and it is not certain which jacket he wore.
James Dean’s jacket in Rebel Without a Cause (1955) was red nylon, not leather. Some online accounts say otherwise. The biker look was tied to motorcycle clubs, and some US high schools banned black leather jackets for a time because of that association.
Café racers in Britain
In Britain during the 1950s and 1960s, riders of café racer motorcycles wore a more minimal jacket. The café racer jacket had a band or snap collar and no lapels. It was a different style from the American moto jacket, and it shows how the same basic garment was adapted in different places.
Punk and rock
In the 1970s, punk bands including the Ramones and the Sex Pistols revived the motorcycle jacket. It became a symbol of anti-establishment style, and it has remained one ever since.
High fashion and everyday wear
The leather jacket moved into mainstream fashion over several decades. Designers and stores now sell it in many styles, from classic motorcycle cuts to lightweight and everyday versions. Some buyers choose vegan or synthetic leather. The jacket’s basic shape has stayed recognizable through these changes.
Leather jackets are also part of identity in some communities. The biker look has a place in LGBTQ leather culture, which is covered in what leather means in LGBTQ communities.
Hides and how they change a jacket
The hide changes how a jacket looks, feels, and wears:
- Horsehide was common in early flight jackets, including the A-2.
- Cowhide is common for motorcycle jackets.
- Goatskin was used for the Navy G-1 and other lightweight jackets.
- Lambskin is soft and is often used in fashion jackets.
For definitions of terms such as full grain, temper, and split, see leather making terms.
Common misconceptions
- “Bomber jacket” first meant the shearling B-3, not the A-2 flight jacket.
- James Dean’s jacket in Rebel Without a Cause was red nylon.
- “Perfecto” is a Schott trademark, not a generic word for a moto jacket.
- The A-2 was not sheepskin-lined.
- Exactly which jacket Brando wore is disputed. Be cautious with specific model names.
For the wider story of leather, see the history of leathercraft.